Storming the Horizon: kite-surfing in Lazio

by Antonino John Scoppettuolo (staff) | Wednesday, November 4th, 2009

Fewer watersports could be more accessible to the full- and part- time sea and wind enthusiasts than windsurf and kite surfing. Italian pioneer and former pro windsurfer Lucio Consoli tells TRF just how easy it is to join the ranks of Rome’s  wind junkies. Beginners, read on. Experts, take note.

The right start
I probe Lucio on the pros and cons of a DIY approach to the sport. He cuts me short and says “if you’re not an expert in the full sense of the word, don’t even go there,” especially if it’s kitesurfing you have in mind. It’s not even a matter of getting into the wrong habits early on, it’s safety plain and simple. While windsurfing is an inherently safer sport, kites can be pretty unforgiving. More dangerous still is kiters’ own overestimation of stamina and of their awareness of the ‘envelope’, namely all aspects defining the limit of a kite’s performance. The short answer to that problem is… “lessons”. In fact, most windsurf and kitesurf dealers won’t rent you any gear – let alone sell – unless you have proof of prior experience: either an IKO (International Kiteboarding Organization) certificate or a qualified IKO instructor’s waiver. You can easily eBay your way out of that problem, but that won’t get you through ‘lift off’ checks. During summer, Lazio’s authorised beaches are by and large monopolised by kite schools.

The right equipment
Watersports aren’t cheap and that is one of the reasons holding kitesurfing back from acquiring Olympic discipline status. Windsurfing first being admitted at the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics – in under a decade after its first appearance –, kitesurfing is yet to make the leap. “Cost and safety are two driving factors in the professionalisation of the sport,” Lucio tells us, with the latter having witnessed significant developments. “Compared to ‘early days’ [late 90s], kitesurfing has performed a 180-degree turnaround in safety terms; kites now have a minimum of 2 to 3 inbuilt safeties and releases,” matching the safety redundancies in parachuting! Increased safety and a vast selection of amateur to pro sails, he argues, are both factors in the sport’s soaring popularity. Advances in design have also conspired to increase kite and board model turnovers, making ‘starter kits’ very affordable.

The right ‘culture’
As much as that may be the case I challenge Lucio on the sport’s safety record, quoting the recent swathe of accidents – one fatal, in Cerveteri – which took place earlier this summer. “It’ s a matter of culture,” he argues. “A seafaring culture is essential, whether swimmer, yachtsman or kitesurfer. Never take to the sea on your own and always seek the companionship of more experienced kiters.” An understanding of the sea and familiarity with weather conditions is a must; the Tyrrhenian Sea can throw up some pretty nasty squalls, without much prior notice. Low intensity marine tornadoes are fairly common along Italy’s western coastline. A freak ‘twister’ is precisely what killed the kitesurfing instructor in Cerveteri earlier in June. But ‘culture’ in Lucio’s books is also about enjoyment. Romans, he says, “lead a double life”; the sea lying within reasonable reach, most “Romans are addicted to the sea”.

The right time and place
Though most beginners approach ‘sail and board’ sports during summer, the best time of year for kitesurfing isn’t summer, but spring, autumn and – braving the weather - winter. Firstly, once the ‘swimming’ season starts kiters are restricted to designated launch sites; beaches are otherwise freely accessible and no special permission is required. Secondly, Lazio’s thermal winds are neither strong nor particularly reliable; the best winds are in spring and autumn. Lastly, average sea temperatures for Lazio – unlike Atlantic waters – require nothing more than a basic 3/4mm bodyglove. As for location and winds, Lazio’s coastline offers a variety of launch angles depending on prevailing winds. Once the surfing ‘addiction’ kicks in, says Lucio, you find yourself hunting for wind up and down the coast. “You  have to shop around for wind” he says, but with modern forecasting tools (check out these links) you can predict wind to within a half-hour and – in some places – to within a half-mile radius!

Kite launch sites in Lazio by province:
Viterbo
Tarquinia: very safe, poor thermals in summer
Rome
Lake Bracciano ‘Trevignano Romano’: cold waters
Civitavecchia ‘Centrale’: best site for southerly winds
Civitaveccia – Santa Marinella: wavy, best Oct-May
Cala della Morte (Santa Marinella): true experts only
Maccarese: safe beach, easy wind conditions
Fregene: great for northerly winds, close to Rome
Focene (Fiumicino/Rome): great for surfing waves
Campo di Mare ‘Cerenava’: best winds Apr-Sep
Marina di San Nicola: ideal for southerly winds
Ostia: easy, best spots Belsito, Lega Navale
Torvajanica: good wave conditions
Lido dei Pini: best Sep-May, great nature
Anzio ‘Lido Garda’: great waves but tricky
Anzio ‘Marinaretti’: challenging shoreline, no waves
Nettuno ‘Creta Rossa’: close to artillery range, tricky
Latina
Latina ‘Foce Verde’: great for north/southerlies
Latina ‘Bufalara’: great scenery, rarely crowded
Circeo ‘Torre Paola’: slightly crowded in summer
Latina ‘Salto di Fondi’: good westerly thermals
Terracina: strong thermals closest to mountain
Formia ‘Vindicio’: best thermals in Lazio
Scauri: safe all year round

Reliable forecasts and weather cams:
www.windguru.com
www.windfinder.com
www.meteoam.it